Lily58 Pro - DIY Build Guide / Log

February 9, 2026 Tags: build homelab diy electrical

A build guide / log on building a split keyboard named Lily 58 Pro

Notices, Information, Tips, Tricks and Recommendations

What I Wanted

Split Keyboard
Custom Firmware
DIY but not Extremely complex for a First Time Keyboard
RGB !!!

Tips, Tricks and Recommendations

Use 280 Celsius on your Soldering Iron - or convert that to Freedom Units -
- The solder should turn liquid in 2-4 seconds
- Mainly used 0.6mm diameter solder, with 2.0% flux
- The first solder would need 350 degrees 4-5 seconds. That wasn’t a great experience
If you unsure if the Diode is oriented correctly, you can use a Multimeter to test it
- Search for the Diode Symbol ( |> | ) or set your Multimeter to Resistance Mode
- Assuming the Multimeter Cables are Red > Positive and Black > Negative
- Put the Probe Ends on the Diode
- Value of 1 means that’s the wrong side eg: your Red is on the “ | ” side of the Diode
- Sub 1 (eg: 0.78) means that you Black Probe is on the “ | ” side of the Diode
If you are not an experienced Solderer, it sucks at first, but once it “clicks”, it goes fast
- eg: once you learn the “wiggle and let it sit”, it’s easy work for the Diodes
Bring time and patience - this will not be done in 30 - 60 minutes
- if it is, you probably don’t need to read this guide

Troubleshooting and Diagnosing

Multimeter

Parts / Build of Materials (BOM)

Essential

Part Name: Lily 58 PCB | Quantity: 2

Model / Details: | Brought At: Kriscables - Lily58 Pro DIY Hotswap Kit

Purpose: Where everything gets soldered onto

Remarks:

Part Name: ProMicro Controller | Quantity: 2

Model / Details: | Brought At: Part of the Kit from Kriscables

Purpose: The brains of the keyboard

Remarks:

For Wireless, nice!nano is better due to ZMK Firmware

Part Name: Diodes | Quantity: 58

Model / Details: 1N4148W | Brought At: Part of the Kit from Kriscables

Purpose: Manages the flow of electrical current (can only flow in one direction)

Remarks:

They also known as “SOD-123”
SMD are needed if you want Choc Switches
If the PCB you find has Through-hole, then you would need Though-Hole Diodes

Part Name: Microcontroller (Hotswap) Sockets | Quantity: 4x 12

Model / Details: | Brought At: Part of the Kit from Kriscables

Purpose: Allows to easily change (so, no need to solder) the micro controller

Remarks:

You need 12 pins per side, per micro controller
So 2 Sides x 12 Sockets x 2 Micro Controller

Part Name: Mill Max Socket Pins | Quantity: 4x 12

Model / Details: | Brought At: Part of the Kit from Kriscables

Purpose: The “legs” of the microcontroller, which attach to the HotSwap Sockets

Remarks:

Same as the Microcontroller Sockets
- So 2 x 12 x 2

Part Name: TRRS Connector | Quantity: 2

Model / Details: | Brought At: Part of the Kit from Kriscables

Purpose: Connecting the boards together | Remarks:

Never disconnect the TRRS cable when the board is connected to the PC
Always disconnect the USB first
Not necessary if you going for a wireless build

Extras

Part Name: Reset Switch Buttons | Quantity: 2

Model / Details: | Brought At:

Purpose:

Remarks:

Part Name: OLED Displays | Quantity: 2

Model / Details: OLED 128x32mm SSD1306 I2C | Brought At:

Purpose: Seeing Layers, WPM, Battery Status, NumLock / CapsLock State, whatever you want | Remarks:

Use nice!view v2 if you building wireless, else Battery life will suck

Part Name: Switches | Quantity: 58

Model / Details: MX or Choc Low Profile | Brought At:

Purpose: What registers the “key press”

Remarks:

If choosing Choc Low Profile, remember to consider if the “legs” will be able to touch the PCB if you plan on adding Layers in between
If you already have a mechanical keyboard, you can always use those switches instead

Part Name: Keycaps | Quantity: 58

Model / Details: MX or Choc Low Profile | Brought At:

Purpose: What your finger presses / what you see when you look at the key

Remarks:

MX and Choc Low Profile are not compatible with each other. This also applies to the switches
If you already have a mechanical keyboard, you can always use those switches instead

Part Name: USB-C (data + power) cable | Quantity: 1

Model / Details: | Brought At:

Purpose: Connect keyboard to the PC

Remarks:

If you building wireless, you just need it to flash

Part Name: On / Off Keys | Quantity: 2

Model / Details: | Brought At:

Purpose: Turn the Board On / Off

Remarks:

This is only needed if you are building Wireless

Part Name: Case | Quantity: 1

Model / Details: | Brought At:

Purpose: Makes everything prettier

Remarks:

A bottom case is HIGHLY recommended. Rest (top, silencing, middle) are optional

Part Name: Batteries | Quantity: 2

Model / Details: 110mah (3.7v Li-Po 301230) | Brought At:

Purpose: Makes Wireless Keyboard Wireless

Remarks:

This is only needed if your are building Wireless
Important is that they are 3.7V

Tools

You might already have this laying around if it’s not your first electronic projects. Else you will need:

Part Name: Soldering Iron | Quantity: 1

Model / Details: | Brought At:

Purpose: To solder

Remarks:

Part Name: Tweezers | Quantity: 1

Model / Details: | Brought At:

Purpose: Holding Components in Place & Briding components for testing

Remarks:

Part Name: Solder | Quantity: Some

Model / Details: | Brought At:

Purpose: Like hot glue, but for electronics

Remarks:

Ideally, Lead Free

Part Name: Solder Wick | Quantity: Some

Model / Details: | Brought At:

Purpose: Fix soldering mistakes

Remarks:

A Solder Pump is also a nice to have. It’s not an “or” it’s an “and” with Solder Wick

Building & Customization Overview

Building Steps Overview

Solder SMD Diodes to the PCB
- make sure they are aligned correctly
- this is now your BOTTOM
Solder Hotswap Sockets of the Microcontroller to the PCB
- on the TOP side
Solder the Pins / Legs on the Microcontroller
- Face down controller on the Hotswap Sockets
- Legs fully in, solder in an X Pattern
Flash Basic Firmware
Manually bridge each key to make sure they are working
- much easier to find and fix now then later
Solder the Key Switches
(if using a screen) Solder the Hotswap Sockets for the Display
Solder / Bridge the Screen Pins
- even if not using a screen, good idea since no downside from doing it
Solder the TRRS / Reset Button
(if using RGB) Solder underglow RGB
Mount Bottom Plate
Mount Middle / Keyswitches Board
Add each individual Key Switch
Add Top Plate
Add Key Caps
Repeat for other Keyboard Half
Enjoy!

Customizing Steps Overview

Make / Adapt Keys, eg using QMK Online Configurator
- Convert your JSON to .c file
Make a new Keymap with QMK
Paste / Edit your Keymaps .c file
Flash your microcontroller

Step by Step Build Guide

01

Step Overview: Solder the Diodes to to the bottom side of the PCB

Step Details:

I recommend using Painter’s Tape or similar and mark the TOP side of the PCB (ask me why)
Solder a bit of Solder to one side of the Diode Receiver
Using Tweezers, hold the Diode in place, heat the previous solder joint until it falls / push into place
Solder the other leg of the Diode

Notes:

Screenshots:

lily58_build_001

lily58_build_002

lily58_build_003

lily58_build_004

lily58_build_005

02

Step Overview: Solder the Controller’s Hotswap Sockets

Step Details:

Basically it’s the one surronded by a Squared Line
Put the Sockets on the TOP side of the PCB
Flip the PCB over
Solder the legs on each corner
Check the Socket is leveled
Solder the other legs

Notes:

You can technically solder the Controller directly to the board, but I HIGHLY recommend against it
Swapping the controller later, in case it breaks or you want a different one will be a massive PITA.

Screenshots:

lily58_build_006

lily58_build_007

03

Step Overview: Solder the Legs of the Microcontroller

Step Details:

With the Controller FACING DOWN
Put the Mill Max Pins into the sockets. Make sure they are inserted all the way down
Solder the Pins

Notes:

Screenshots:

lily58_build_008

04

Step Overview: Flash the Microcontroller

Step Details:

I recommend flashing with the default / a simple firmware / config, so yousure it’s a good / working one
To enter flash mode on the ProMicro, just brige GND with RST 2x times
If you flashing via CLI, the command is something like:
- qmk flash -kb lily58/rev1 -km default

Notes:

Screenshots:

05

Step Overview: Test Each Key

Step Details:

It’s much easier to test - and fix - any issue now then later
Using Tweezers or your Multimeter, bridge each of the connections
Make sure you get one and exactly one key input / signal
If a key outputs multiple values:
- you probably have a solder bridge
- or a diode is broken
If a key doesn’t output anything:
- check your diode, even more they solder joints and orientation
- maybe the pin on the controller
- Make sure the key actually have a function you can test - eg: “a” -

Notes:

Screenshots:

06

Step Overview: Solder the Howswap Switch Sockets

Step Details:

On the BOTTOM side of the PCB
Remeber that the Socket will go in both ways, but only one way will leave the Hole Available for the Switch
Put the Hotswap Socket In
Heat up one leg / solder point and apply Solder
With your finger on top of it to keep it in place, let it cool down
Solder the other “leg”

Notes:

While you can technically solder the Switch directly to the PCB, I highly recommend against it
It’s very little cost, and unless you are 100% sure you won’t want other switches, ever, it’s worth to add them
Repairs are also much easier, since you can just swap the switch instead of having to solder it out

Screenshots:

lily58_build_009

07

Step Overview: Solder / Bridge the Screen Pins

Step Details:

On the TOP side of the PCB
Bridge the 4 Jumpers, by soldering them 2 by 2 Vertically
Even if you don’t plan on using the OLED Screens, still recommended, since there is no harm in having them bridged

Notes:

Screenshots:

08

Step Overview: Solder the TRRS / Reset Button / OLED Hotswap Socket

Step Details:

Solder the TRRS
Solder the Reset Button
If using a Screen, Solder in the Hotswap Socket

Notes:

Screenshots:

09

Step Overview: Final Test Pre-Assembly

Step Details:

Now it’s a good point to put the Screen on and Check it everything works
Bridging / Activating the Switches should also be working as expected

Notes:

Screenshots:

10

Step Overview: Solder the Underglow RGB

Step Details:

By far the most challenging solder, mainly on the dables
Remember the Cable will go on the BOTTOM side
Solder the 5V, Signal and GND with Cables
Solder the cables to the holes in the PCB
Remember that you can either solder the cables in the same direction or both pointing from in > outwards

Notes:

Screenshots:

lily58_build_010

11

Step Overview: Assemble the Case

Step Details:

Add Screws and Raisers to the Bottom Layer
Add OLED Cover Screws and Raisers to PCB Layer
PCB Layer on Top of Bottom Layer
Dampening Layer
Top Layer
Everything Still Working?
Switches
OLED Covers
Keycaps

Notes:

If you have less layers, just skip the ones you don’t have

Screenshots:

lily58_build_011

12

Step Overview: If building Wireless, Battery time

Step Details:

Solder the On / Off Switch to the board
Solder the JST Plug to the Board
Connect the Battery

Notes:

A JST Plug - or similar - is *HIGHLY* recommended.
If you want a bigger battery (like the one on the photo), you need to get a “custom” bottom, so it can house the battery.
If you want something that fits between Board and PCB the biggest you can probably fit is a 301230 LiPo
ProTip: those numbers are the size of the battery. Just make sure you using a 3.7v one.

Screenshots:

lily58_build_012